Potent plant polyphenols in Monteloeder’s four-botanical blend investigated for anti-aging effects

27 Jan 2023 --- Plant polyphenols consumed orally have been found to be effective in both preventing and reducing different changes in the skin as a result of aging. A dietary approach based on these compounds could be a safe and effective method to slow down or prevent age-associated deterioration of skin appearance and function.

A new study aims to clinically evaluate the safety and anti-aging efficacy of a botanical ingredient by Monteloeder based on a blend of four polyphenol-rich extracts, branded Eternalyoung.

 The blend demonstrated its effects by preventing the rate at which telomeres shorten, which is an activity that signals cell aging.The four spotlighted botanical extracts are pomegranate, sweet orange, herbal Cistanche and Centella asiatica.

The medicinal herb Centella asiatica, in particular, was previously utilized in Givaudan Active Beauty’s Centella CAST solution, sourced using green fractionation of the plant. The ingredient – also known as gotu kola – may restore skin elasticity and firmness lost during pregnancy.

Preventing telomere shortening
The Monteloeder study builds on one previous study, which found that the four botanical extracts exhibited potential anti-aging effects in a dermal fibroblast cell model.

The findings of the new study are particularly timely, considering how the “beauty-from-within” trend continues to feature prominently across product development in the cosmeceuticals space.

“It is important that new innovative blends coming onto the market be able to substantiate their claims with proper studies,” stress the study researchers. “Previous in vitro studies in a cell line of human dermal fibroblasts demonstrated that this specific botanical blend could counteract key mechanisms involved in the skin aging process.” 

Specifically, the blend demonstrated its effects by preventing the rate at which telomeres – “caps” at the end of each strand of DNA that protect our chromosomes – shorten, which is an activity that signals cell aging.

“This four‐extract blend significantly reduced the telomere shortening rate and percentage of critically short telomeres, which correlates with the risk of cells entering senescence,” highlight the researchers.

Observable results in four weeks
In one previous study, a combination of the four spotlighted botanical extracts exhibited potential anti-aging effects in a dermal fibroblast cell model. 

In the current study to evaluate the previous research’s findings and safety of the four extracts, a 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was carried out in 60 Caucasian women with evident signs of both chrono- and photo-aging.

Product efficacy was measured as follows: skin moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), skin radiance and color (spectrophotometer), skin elasticity and firmness (cutometer), skin roughness (image analysis) and skin thickness (ultrasound).

“Both intergroup and intragroup analysis proved that the daily intake of 225 mg of the active ingredient was enough to produce visible and structural improvements to the skin and to the signs of aging without any side effects,” detail the researchers.

“Statistically significant improvements compared to the placebo group were observed as early as four weeks regarding wrinkle depth, elasticity, firmness, skin thickness, skin moisturization, transepidermal water loss and dark spots pigmentation.”

The Monteloeder study builds on one previous study, which found that the four botanical extracts exhibited potential anti-aging effects in a dermal fibroblast cell model.

In addition, the subjects who consumed the blend reported better scores on the self-assessment questionnaires.

“Our results suggest that the intake of the test product can positively affect the appearance, barrier function, and skin density of aged skin after 12 weeks of treatment,” note the researchers.

Formulating with the power of polyphenols
Published clinical studies on plant polyphenols – found in large quantities in berries, cocoa and red wine – have shown myriad health benefits, such as reducing stroke risk and other cardiovascular diseases while supporting the central nervous system and improving cognitive function.

Almonds, in particular, were recently found to provide a “unique and complex” nutrient and polyphenol mixture that may support metabolic recovery from stressful levels of physical activity, boosting exercise recovery molecules by 69% among those who work out regularly.

Newly debuted polyphenol supplements tracked within the “beauty-from-within” category featured prominently at the last SupplySide West expo. Among these was Skinax², an ingredient that features the antioxidant activity of grape seed polyphenols, bioactive superoxide dismutase from French melon, including zinc and vitamin C for anti-aging. The collagen-boosting nutricosmetic functions to enhance the skin’s glow.

By Benjamin Ferrer