Givaudan and BIO-FD&C collaboration yields novel vegetal ingredients for skin and hair

07 Apr 2020 --- A year into its partnership with South Korean plant cell culture company, BIO-FD&C, Givaudan Active Beauty has unveiled two active ingredients crafted by “green biotechnology.” Inspired by the latest Korean beauty trends, K-phyto [SC] Camellia is an extract of plant stem cells designed to address dry scalps and dandruff, while K-phyto [PP] GHK is a phyto peptide aimed to reduce skin sebum production. The launches come as naturality in cosmetic ingredients continues to influence consumers who seek vegetal and botanical formulations.

“The exclusive partnership with BIO-FD&C leverages the untapped power of plants through stem cell cultures and unique phyto peptides. It allows our experts to offer natural and reliable solutions for hair and skin care issues such as dry scalp and oily skin, while protecting our planet,” says Mathias Fleury, Global Category Manager for Biotechnology Actives.

Last year, Givaudan entered into a partnership with BIO-FD&C to combine the R&D know-how of both companies for the creation of anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. As the demand for Korean beauty products grows in the west, US and European companies are taking note of the innovations hailing from this country. Many are also recognizing the potential of expanding their reach in Asia. 

The companies also joined forces on the commercial side to further expand their respective businesses in South Korea, while Givaudan is supporting the commercialization of Bio FD&C’s portfolio globally. Along with the partnership, Givaudan also acquired a minority stake in BIO-FD&C.

“We are celebrating one year of partnership with the launch of these two new active ingredients. We are obviously expecting future launches, as we are proud to use green biotechnology, to give access to our customers to natural, sustainable and ethical ingredients. There will be other mid- to long-term phases for this collaboration: offering exclusive actives development to some of our partners and customers thanks to this partnership, but also developing together unique new ingredients based on our partner's technologies and know-how together with our various expertise,” Fleury tells NutritionInsight.

“Phyto peptides are a combination of a synthetic peptide with a natural phytochemical moiety. This conjugation of two molecules enables an easier use of phytochemicals in cosmetics by improving their solubility and stability, which is usually challenging, while preserving their antioxidant activity. It also enhances the properties of existing peptides by boosting their efficacy, and diversifying their biological activities. Additionally, the use of a natural phytochemical moiety enables an improvement of the ingredient's naturality,” he adds.

Camellia to fight itchy flaky scalp
K-phyto [SC] Camellia is a powerful active obtained from Camellia phytoplacenta cell culture. By using plant cell culture, Givaudan’s scientists were able to isolate and replicate these cells from a Camellia flower without endangering natural resources. The flower, which originates from Jeju Island, is traditionally used in Asia for its scalp care and hair conditioning properties.

This unique active compound can increase the scalp moisture content by up to 13.8 percent and reinforce the epidermal cohesion of the scalp keratinocytes, the company supports. This results in a reduction of dry flakes and dandruff by 33.6 percent, while it can also significantly soothe the scalp, with an erythema reduction of 6.6 percent.

Last year, Givaudan entered into a partnership with BIO-FD&C to combine the R&D know-how of both companies for the creation of anti-aging cosmetic ingredients.Givaudan says that K-phyto [SC] Camellia offers major benefits in one week and it also delivers great results after just one single shampoo application by restoring hydration; improving soothing; and reducing flakes better than the placebo conditions.

Phyto peptides for oily skin
Oily skin is a frustrating condition that can affect consumers’ self-confidence, especially in today’s focus on maintaining a “picture-perfect image,” asserts Givaudan. Both female and male consumers are seeking solutions for this common skin complaint leading to acne, the company adds.

K-phyto [PP] GHK is a molecule that combines botanicals and peptides to act on sebum production’s mechanisms. Thanks to the company’s phyto peptide technology (combining a peptide with a natural phytochemical molecule), it offers a full set of actions, starting with preserved antioxidant and anti-aging activities compared to its base molecules (caffeic acid and matrikine GHK). Clinical studies showed significant benefits (versus placebo) on reduction of the facial sebum production in just two weeks (down by 35.5 percent), with an even more impressive efficacy after one month of use (67.5 percent), up to five times better than placebo.

Despite the global COVID-19 situation, the company is prolific with NPD. In March, Givaudan Active Beauty released a “breakthrough innovation” in skin care, called Synchronight. It is an active cosmetic ingredient derived from gardenia fruit extract designed to protect the skin from so-called “digital stress.”

Earlier this year, the company also unveiled Sensory Crush, a collection of three naturally colored face masks that are touted as meeting the beauty expectations of Gen Z consumers. The masks were “specially designed for the ‘skintellectual’ generation” and tap into the trend for natural ingredients, especially in the colorings and dyes sector. 

By Kristiana Lalou