Beyond skincare: How cosmeceuticals are extending into science-backed hair and joint therapies

15 Dec 2022 --- Consumers are turning toward cosmeceuticals as skin disorders, and an aging population require solutions with scientifically proven benefits. NutritionInsight speaks to experts from BioCell Technology, Seppic and TriNutra, sharing the difference between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, including prominent trends, demographics and the benefits of ingredients with proven efficacy.

Clarifying the difference between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, Douglas Jones, global sales and marketing manager at BioCell Technology, says that cosmetics are applied topically, whereas a cosmeceutical is orally ingested.

Similarly, Dr. Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, Business Development Director, TriNutra, says that cosmetics are products intended to be applied to the body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance without affecting structure or function.

Rosabora showed a decrease of 42% in the microcirculation on rosacea-prone skin (Image credit: Seppic).“Cosmeceutical is a term used for cosmetic materials that would go skin deep with more of a therapeutic action capable of affecting the skin positively beyond the time of its application.”

Maud Merlini, Digital & Market Manager at Seppic, explains that cosmeceuticals combine cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, similar to how nutraceuticals combine nutrition with pharmaceuticals.

“It’s a made-up word, first used by Dr. Albert Kligman in the 1970s to encompass cosmetic products or ingredients with therapeutic, disease-fighting, or healing properties, serving as a bridge between personal care products and pharmaceuticals. Although the term became more popular, there is no comprehensive or legal definition of a cosmeceutical product today,” she says.

“In most cases, cosmeceuticals fall under the scope of cosmetic products, with slight regulatory differences from one country to another. Therefore, we can describe that a cosmeceutical is a scientifically designed cosmetic product inspired by medical research that exerts a biological action.”

Upcoming trends
New cosmeceutical trends will target healing skin disorders and caring for aging skin.

“On one hand, the increase in the prevalence of skin disorders around the world and the inclination of dermatologists toward prescribing cosmeceuticals as compared to other modes of treatment are responsible for the rising demand for cosmeceuticals,” she says.

“On the other hand, the increasingly aging population willing to maintain a youthful appearance also supports the interest in these products.”

Cosmeceuticals extend beyond skincare and can be applied for hair care to address hair growth and dandruff issues. In the lip segment, cosmeceuticals can be sustained by the increasing number of non-invasive aesthetic procedures among consumers, says Merlini.

“Green revolution”
Merlini highlights that cosmeceuticals will likely be no exception to the ‘green’ revolution, with attention carried on having a higher content of natural and organic ingredients.

In agreement, Oppen-Bezalel adds that less processed, unpolluted and efficacious products that have little to no impact on the environment and upcycled materials are taking the front line of the trends.

“The product should have multifunctional benefits, with clinical data showing the ingredient’s ability to aid in holistic health and well-being of the hair and skin (body and face). Additionally, beauty-from-within products with nutraceuticals that are also cosmeceuticals is another area gaining traction in the market,” says Oppen-Bezalel.

“In other words, keeping the immediate health and beauty of the skin while protecting the environment are the trends that are here to stay.”

Skin and joint connectionCosmeceuticals often rely on ingredients that are backed up and science-based.
Jones of BioCell Technology elaborates that beauty-from-within will continue to grow. “Conducting meetings on camera, whether in the office or working from home, will continue. Consumers are more aware of appearances, so looking for an easy solution will continue.”

He shares an example of a supplement to hydrate and renew skin and joints called Collagen Booster by Reserveage Beauty. This product counters the effects of aging on the skin and joints, which includes collagen type II, hyaluronic acid and chondroitin.

Clinical studies have proven that the Collagen Booster can revitalize collagen’s mesh fabric and other connective tissues – which are vital for skin and joint health. It is also noted to show support for joint comfort in 35 days.

Similarly, another example shared by Jones includes Collagen Hyaluronic Acid Complex Tablets by Solgar, used for boosting skin and joint health.

Anti-microbial benefits
Oppen-Bezalel says that cosmeceuticals are beneficial due to their ability to modulate the “mechanism of action” and thereby affect specifically a “broken” pathway or improve the health and well-being of the skin.

“If we take, for example, the mitochondria, which are the cell powerhouse and host a lot of activity in terms of respiration, metabolism, energy production, signaling, cellular differentiation and more, one can notice that during aging, several changes can occur to mitochondria, and studies have shown that some cosmeceuticals may positively affect the changes and the entire health and well-being of the skin.” 

“Another area cosmeceuticals can benefit the skin is inflammation, where many skin issues begin. Mitigating oxidative stress that causes skin and health damage can be done with cosmeceuticals, too,” she continues.

Lastly, Oppen-Bezalel highlights that cosmeceutical ingredients can help maintain a balanced microbiome by supporting good microorganisms and suppressing harmful ones.

 “For example, a proprietary cold-pressed black cumin seed oil with 3% thymoquinone and less than 2% free fatty acids branded as B’utyQuin, has been clinically shown to improve mitochondrial functions, reduce inflammation and oxidative stress through an improved metabolism and increase energy (ATP production) and hydration,” says Oppen-Bezalel.

B’utyQuin has also proven effective against fungi like Malassezia furfur and Candida albicans and bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus – that cause skin disorders.

Aesthetic applications
Merlini shares that cosmeceuticals can be categorized as aesthetic – anti-aging cosmetics and aesthetic medicine – and dermatological ones – treat skin troubles and are related to the dermatology sciences.

“Some of the major classes of common ingredients used in cosmeceuticals to enhance skin appearance are retinoids, vitamins (A, E, B3, C), antioxidants, lightening agents and hydroxy-α-acids,” she shares. 

Cosmeceuticals often rely on ingredients that are backed up and science-based.

“For example, Centella Asiatica and its molecules are well-known ingredients used in pharmacology with proven biological activity in wound healing. Lately, it has been a buzzing ingredient in the beauty sphere and many cosmeceuticals contain ‘cica’ ingredients (Centella Asiatica extract, madecassoside, Asiatic and madecassic acid),” continues Merlini.

“In particular, Seppic offers TECA, a pharmacology reference available for cosmetic applications: its powerful blend of active molecules that restores the skin’s integrity. An in-vivo study showed that skin repairs faster after a laser procedure using TECA.”

Seppic also offers Rosabora, Tambourissa Trichophylla Leaf Extract for reducing redness on rosacea-prone skin. “Rosabora helps reduce redness by acting on every step of the skin’s chronic inflammation,” says Merlini.

“The beneficial effects of Rosabora have been demonstrated in vivo, showing a decrease of 42% in the microcirculation on rosacea-prone skin and a visible improvement of persistent redness after 28 days.”

Cosmeceuticals will likely be no exception to the ‘green’ revolution.Consumer demographic and region 
Jones observed that: “Older millennials led the way during the pandemic. Now that we are entering the next phase, I suspect the younger millennials are not far behind.”

Furthermore, Oppen-Bezalel has noticed an increase in younger demographics. “They are invested in how their overall health can be impacted by nutraceuticals and look to cosmeceuticals for those same beauty-related benefits.”

Merlini adds that young and older demographics consume cosmeceuticals for aesthetic or dermatological purposes. “In terms of regions, cosmeceuticals are eyeing growth everywhere. The APAC dominates the market, owing to the numerous medical aesthetic procedures and the increase in dermatological skin issues.”

“Then, follow the North America and Europe markets, mainly driven by the prevalence of skin disorders such as acne, eczema and others,” she says. 

“Finally, in the aftermath of the COVID-19 outbreak, the Indian market has moved toward skincare in a big way and the cosmeceuticals market holds untapped potential: the shift in purchasing priorities, purchasing power and the behavior changes toward healthy skin are a result of the pandemic and shed light on cosmeceuticals.”

Cosmetic pharmacology?
Oppen-Bezalel explains that cosmetics are products aimed at starting with a healthy population. “They intend to make us feel and look great – not necessarily ‘fix’ a problem, which is what pharmacology does.”

“Moreover, we should remember that many pharmacological compounds are developed based on natural molecules and their modifications. For that, some health products (nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals) are the source for products that combine ancient practices with modern techniques – and in some cases, evolve later to be pharmaceuticals.”

On the other hand, Jones thinks consumers look for products that make claims based on clinical evidence. “Having ingredients that have conducted clinical trials and making that available to consumers on the website will be preferred.”

Taking a practical perspective, Merlini thinks that the answer lies in the differences in the regulatory frameworks of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

“The numerous constraints and the high costs enforced by the pharmacological regulation often put off considering this approach. But it can definitely be claimed that the difference between some cosmetic and pharmaceutical products are blurring, as the cosmetic industry invests heavily in research,” she concludes.

By Venya Patel