You are what you eat: Ingestible skincare draws inspiration from the phytonutrient-rich Mediterranean diet

04 Apr 2019 --- The beauty market is looking inwards – that is to say, studying the efficacies of ingestible skincare supplements in improving and safeguarding complexion. Israeli wellness company Lycored has commissioned a study of its beauty supplement Lycoderm – a carotenoid-rich tomato nutrient complex – which revealed that its regular intake may contribute to the skin’s balanced response to UV rays and other environmental stressors.

The brand’s blend of standardized levels of tomato phytonutrients and carnosic acid (rosemary extract) draws inspiration from the nutrient-rich Mediterranean diet. Participants of the 148-person study who were fed the supplement experienced reduced secretion of pro-inflammatory mediators. Externally, that balance was reflected in reduced skin redness. 

But there are no magic bullets or quick fixes. The tomato nutrient complex has not been distinguished as an alternative to sunblock or moderated sun exposure. “Complementing traditional topical skincare and suncare with proper nourishment of body and skin can help balance our skin’s response to environmental challenges and build a better foundation for beautiful skin and long term skin wellness,” says Dr. Karin Hermoni, PhD, Head of Science & Nutrition at Lycored.

Carotenoids have become a mainstay in the sphere of cosmeceuticals. Earlier in March this year, for example, Frutarom entered the nascent market with PhytoflORAL, a patented, clinically studied cosmeceutical created to brighten skin and protect it from UV and oxidative damage. Similar to Lycoderm, PhytoflORAL is composed of a proprietary ingredient derived from tomatoes rich in the colorless carotenoids.

Evaluating the benefits of a carotenoid-rich diet
The research was conducted as a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled multicenter study, where the carotenoid nutrient complex was analyzed to determine its potency in alleviating UV-induced erythema formation (redness of the irradiated spot). Researchers studied the intensity of erythema formation (redness of the irradiated spot), and evaluated molecular markers associated with inflammation – to test whether this correlates with carotenoid levels in the blood.

Subjects were selected at random and placed in two treatment groups, where they were subjected to a five-week wash-out period, followed by a twelve-week supplementation phase. Participants were exposed to controlled local UV radiation both at baseline and at the end of supplementation. Chromametry analysis to evaluate erythema intensity as well as biopsies collection to test cytokine mRNA levels were performed following the UV exposure.

Findings show boosted skin resilience
Results from this study found that after 12 weeks, participants had a higher resistance to UV-induced erythema formation and a reduction of local inflammation at the area of local UV exposure. Observed texture parameters such as skin density, thickness and smoothness were also found to have improved. 

Researchers noted that the balancing effect of the tomato carotenoids increases when it is combined with other synergistic nutrients and antioxidants. In particular, the strong antioxidant carnosic acid from rosemary extract was shown to add an extra layer of synergy. This was found to enhance protective intracellular mechanisms related to skin wellness and the control of collagen-degrading enzymes.

“This study supports the notion that true beauty starts from within,” says Dr. Hermoni.

By Benjamin Ferrer