“Science of gorgeous”: Lonza launches ingredient to detoxify skin and promote youthfulness

19 Sep 2019 --- Lonza’s personal care division is launching a new topical ingredient that promotes the appearance of youthful skin and an even skin tone by protecting against damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Modifect EV Bioactive can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and age spots and allows healthier skin which is able to produce more collagen. The topical skincare solution is supported by in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo technical data, providing insights into its biochemical mechanisms of action and proof of efficacy, the company says. Moreover, it is available globally and can be added to any formulation, including serums, moisturizers, lotions and creams.

Modifect EV Bioactive is composed of three different ingredients (Coffee Seed Extract, Trehalose and Carnosine) that were specifically chosen based on their chemistry and previously reported biological activity and biophysical properties.

“Modifect EV Bioactive offers a unique combination of ingredients with multifunctional performance designed to impart a more youthful appearance. It helps to detoxify and fortify skin against oxidative damage,” notes Vanessa Arruda, Ph.D., Global Product Launch & Communication Lead for Lonza. 

“The bioactive helps to detoxify and fortify skin against oxidative damage, it can be used on all skin types from all regions and all age ranges,” Judith Goodier, Global Marketing Communications Manager at Lonza tells NutritionInsight.

Consumers are increasingly looking for skincare solutions that can address concerns related to environmental damage in addition to those that can help them age well. Lonza’s Lonza Home & Personal Care arm is a supplier of non-traditional and traditional functional solutions. 

Consumers are increasingly looking for skincare solutions that can address concerns related to environmental damage.Previously, a study conducted by Rousselot found that oral supplementation with Peptan collagen peptides may significantly contribute to improving the overall appearance of skin and hair in an ethnically diverse population. 

“What we’re trying to do now is show people that collagen is a very versatile ingredient and can be used in many different applications – from bars and gummies, to gels and powdered formats,” Dr. Jeff Daelman, Product & Business Development Manager Rousselot, told NutritionInsight at Vitafoods Europe 2019. 

The company is presenting Modifect EV Bioactive at In-Cosmetics Latin America taking place 18-19 September in São Paulo, Brazil.

Decreasing DNA damage from UV radiation
Independent in vitro and ex vivo efficacy tests showed that Modifect EV bioactive can reduce the presence of superoxide radicals in mitochondria and increase the levels of the Sirtuin 3 protein. The ingredient can also decrease the levels of DNA damage in response to UV radiation or pollutants.

“Clinical tests with 59 female volunteers showed that Modifect EV bioactive reduces the appearance of lines, wrinkles and age spots and leads to a healthier skin, which is able to produce higher levels of collagen,” Dr. Arruda notes. “In addition, the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) was decreased as demonstrated in clinical tests and confirmed by in vitro test.” 

ROS are recognized for their ability to cause damage to essential skin proteins and lipids, which can break down skin functions and lead to changes including wrinkling, dry skin, hyperpigmentation, and loss of firmness and elasticity,” Arruda says.

“The majority of consumers are familiar with external environmental factors, such as UV radiation and chemical pollutants increasing ROS production. However, the fact that ROS also arise from healthy behavior such as exercise will come as a surprise to most, and presents an opportunity for consumer education,” she adds.

“Few consumers recognize that certain behavioral risk factors such as sleep deprivation, poor diet, and other unhealthy lifestyles can increase levels of ROS through internal mechanisms. Moreover, the fact that ROS also arise from healthy behavior such as exercise and the mere state of being alive, through basic mitochondrial function, will come as a surprise to most and presents an excellent opportunity for consumer education. Modifect EV helps to reduce ROS levels from both internal and external factors,” Goodier notes.

Personal care is an arena that a lot of major industry players are entering, especially via ingestible ingredients that boast skin-boosting properties. From Nestlé and DSM to Lipofoods and Givaudan, the space is experiencing exponential growth with innovative ingredients and formulations that tout beauty-enhancing potential. Collagen peptides are highlighted for their ability to improve skin elasticity and promote a youthful appearance, but emerging science is uncovering the further potential they may hold.

By Kristiana Lalou