“Vectorized youth therapy”: Givaudan launches novel microencapsulated retinol

08 May 2019 --- Global flavors and fragrances company Givaudan’s Active Beauty arm has unveiled a new microencapsulated, stabilized retinol ingredient, coined Spherulite R10. Crafted with the Spherulite microencapsulation technology, Spherulite R10 demonstrates improved anti-aging clinical efficacy compared to free retinol, according to the company. The product is suitable for most cosmetic applications including creams, serums, gels, cleansing products and deodorants. Givaudan’s Active Beauty offers an extensive portfolio of active cosmetic ingredients designed to “bring beauty to the world.”

Retinol, also known as Vitamin A1 is the most sought after anti-aging ingredient for skin care, and as a supplement it can treat vitamin A deficiencies effectively. Retinol is notoriously difficult to stabilize, however, which has, so far, presented a challenge for formulators. Anti-aging ingredients are a leading consumer demand and retinol is “a golden standard,” the company notes. It is one of the most requested ingredients when it comes to ameliorating the appearance of wrinkles. Globally, one in four consumers are looking for retinol in their skincare products.

“Retinol is mostly contained in the lipophilic layers. The advantage of Spherulite technology consists in the possibility to vectorize active ingredients. Thus, non-ionic multilayer crystalline microcapsules enable better penetration into the skin, whereas cationic microcapsules tend to remain on the surface of skin or hair,” Marina Egorova, Category Manager for Active Beauty at Givaudan, tells NutritionInsight.

“The stabilization of reactive molecules is an additional advantage of the Spherulite technology. Protected in a microcapsule, retinol is less vulnerable towards degradation that is facilitated by the air, temperature and light,” Egorova explains.

 S3D PoweR-10, a micro-vectorized retinol anti-aging night creamThe encapsulated retinol is more stable than free retinol in its formulation and twice more stable than other benchmark encapsulated retinol products, Spherulite R10 enables Vitamin A to have a better bioavailability into the epidermis. 

When compared to free retinol in a double-blind versus placebo clinical trial, Spherulite R10 demonstrated quicker and improved rejuvenating results than free retinol with a significant decrease of crow’s feet wrinkles (-11.1 percent in one month) and of the volume of nasolabial wrinkles (-37.3 percent in two months). Over 70 percent of the volunteers saw a visible effect on wrinkles and felt their skin plumper after using the microencapsulated retinol. 

“Spherulite is a unique technology that allows the encapsulation of hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active molecules in multilayer crystalline microcapsules. Within these microcapsules surfactant bi-layers and hydrophilic interfaces alternate,” Egorova notes. 

Being of non-ionic nature, Spherulite R10 enables skin penetration as well as the slow release of retinol, according to Egorova. This provides not only a more efficient delivery of the active molecule to the lower skin layers, and in particular the Stratum Corneum, but also prevents any adverse reactions, such as skin irritation, she explains.

To inspire the beauty industry, Givaudan Active Beauty’s formulation experts crafted S3D PoweR-10. It is a micro-vectorized retinol anti-aging night cream. Featuring Spherulite R10, it can also help treat wrinkles softly and carefully, the company says. Fresh and light, the cream penetrates quickly into the skin without leaving any excess or sticky effect. The experience is what the company calls the “vectorized youth therapy”.

Recently, Givaudan’s Active Beauty department also entered into a long-term partnership with South Korean beauty innovation company Bio FD&C. The collaboration aims to combine the R&D know-how of both companies for the creation of anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. As the demand for Korean beauty products grows in the west, US and European companies are taking note of the innovations hailing from this country, while expanding their reach in Asia also seems to hold potential.

On the sustainability front, in March, Givaudan published its 2018 Sustainability Progress Review. A report which highlights the advances made during the first full year of the company’s efforts for increased sustainability with “A Sense of Tomorrow” approach. Reinforcing this new tactic towards sustainability, the flavor house has reported “steady progress” which, underpins its ability to meet ambitious targets and respond to customers’ and wider society’s expectations.