Sunshine and skin care: New vitamin D derivatives illuminate anti-aging benefits

07 May 2024 --- A new study published in Cosmetics shines light on the influence of vitamin D and its derivatives for slowing down skin aging via different mechanisms that offer protection against UV-induced cell damage, which causes all skin cells to enter senescence — also referred to as “cell death.” 

A unique finding lies in the “pleiotropic effects” of vitamin D, which make this chemical an “excellent candidate” for treating many different skin diseases, suggest the paper authors.

“Vitamin D and its metabolites regulate cell proliferation and differentiation in skin cells and enhance skin regeneration. They regulate cell signaling and the genes involved in aging, protect against oxidative damage, direct DNA damage and skin aging,” they explain.

These effects extend beyond aesthetics, potentially benefiting conditions like eczema and vitiligo.

The research paves the way for developing new cosmetics with vitamin D and its derivatives. The study authors suggest that these products could offer alternatives to existing sunscreens and anti-aging creams. They would work by stimulating the skin’s natural protective mechanisms in keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts — the building blocks of healthy skin.

Stimulating natural skin defenses
Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including the skin. “Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis,” highlight the study authors.

The study highlights the antioxidant properties of vitamin D and its derivatives, which can neutralize free radicals that contribute to skin aging. The researchers suggest that, unlike some sunscreens, these work by stimulating the skin’s natural defense mechanisms, offering a potentially safer and more holistic approach.

In melanocytes, vitamin D and its derivatives inhibit cell proliferation, inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants. They act as antioxidants, which further offset photo-aging by “preventing or neutralizing” reactive oxygen species formations or “inducing skin repair” through inhibiting collagenase synthesis, the paper suggests.

Unlike some sunscreens, vitamin D and its derivatives work by stimulating the skin’s natural defense mechanisms.In keratinocytes, these compounds inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation. They offer anti-inflammatory properties while acting as antioxidants, inhibiting DNA damage and stimulating DNA repair after UV exposure.

In fibroblasts, vitamin D and its derivatives inhibit cell proliferation, affect fibrotic processes and collagen production and promote wound healing and regeneration.

Another advantage is the natural origin of vitamin D compounds. They are also shown to target specific pathways (Nrf2 and AhR) involved in skin barrier function and cellular communication, opening doors for treating various skin concerns.

“Skin care products targeting aging have Nrf2 activity. Vitamin D derivatives target both Nrf2 and AhR, and therefore, they could be used to strengthen the skin barrier function and to treat different skin conditions, such as vitiligo, atopic dermatitis and skin aging, and act as photo-protective agents in the skin,” highlight the authors.

“The prospects of cosmetic applications of vitamin D in the skin are highly promising, especially regarding their safety since they do not cause hypercalcemia. More research is warranted to explore the use of novel vitamin D derivatives in skin care,” they conclude.

At the recent In-cosmetics Global industry trade fair in Paris, France, Givaudan Active Beauty introduced Neuroglow, its active ingredient designed to “safely replicate” the positive effects of sun-stimulated vitamin D production for a sought-after skin glow.

By Benjamin Ferrer