Robertet boosts cosmeceutical ingredient production with new in-house unit

04 Oct 2019 --- French flavors and fragrances giant Robertet is investing in an additional production unit for its flagship cosmeceutical ingredient Lipowheat. The production unit – situated in the company’s factory in Grasse – will double production capacity and be fully operational by early 2020. The move is in response to the increasing demand for Lipowheat, as the nutricosmetics space is seeing accelerated growth, according to the company. 

Recently, the company brought an innovative new formulation to the botanicals space, with the introduction of a range of essential oils in powder form. The line boasts a wide range of applications and is combined with the gut health-boosting benefits of inulin, which is used as an active carrier. The Health and Beauty division offers natural and safe active ingredients to its clients. The range of cosmeceuticals includes Lipowheat, Keranat and SOD B. 

Food and beverages featuring skin-boosting claims are on the rise globally. According to Innova Market Insights data, launches with skin health claims saw a 14 percent CAGR from 2014 to 2018. 

A supplement for younger-looking skin
Lipowheat is a plant-based ingredient that targets skin beauty and anti-aging. It has a “unique composition,” according to Robertet, as it contains several types of lipids: ceramides, glycolipids, phospholipids and unsaponifiables.

“Long before the natural product mega-trend became so pervasive, Lipowheat already satisfied many of the criteria that today’s consumers are looking for: it is entirely plant-based, natural and gluten-free. Its health and beauty benefits have been scientifically proven, making it the reference ingredient for a visible and significant effect on skin. Lipowheat restores the skin’s protective barrier and locks in moisture, resulting in hydrated and glowing skin,” the company notes.

The wheat variety from which Lipowheat is extracted only grows in certain parts of Europe and produces high-quality lipids that deliver visible results. The extraction process respects the integrity of the raw materials, preventing the oils from being denatured, and ensuring the absence of gluten in the finished ingredient. 

Robertet has commissioned six oral clinical studies for Lipowheat, making it the most scientifically studied of all phytoceramide ingredients. The latest study was published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in May 2019 and indicated that Lipowheat has long-lasting effects, even in post-supplementation.

The wheat variety from which Lipowheat is extracted only grows in certain parts of Europe and produces high-quality lipids that deliver visible results. Lipowheat can be used in a variety of forms, such as soft capsules, capsules, beauty shots, droppers and cosmetics.

International markets for nutricosmetics
Healthy-looking skin is an indicator of overall good health, the company notes, and the skin acts as a mirror reflecting the body’s internal balance and health. The Japanese were the first to consume food supplements and functional foods for beauty purposes and the Asian market is booming with innovative skin-boosting formulations. 

Lipowheat was introduced to this market to meet the need for natural ingredients, and particularly phytoceramides. The water retention capacity of these molecules helps maintain optimal skin hydration, which is the key to healthy and glowing skin. Until 2010, Japan was the most dynamic market for dietary supplements in the Asia Pacific region, driven by its numerous local brands. 

Nutricosmetics then conquered other parts of the world and began to develop in Europe and the US. Starting in 2010, nutricosmetics became a visible segment in the American dietary supplements market. In this market, the consumers’ needs tended more toward wrinkle reduction for younger-looking skin. With three clinical studies focusing on this issue, Lipowheat immediately found fertile ground in the space, shares Robertet.

The nutricosmetics market is also booming in China. “Mianzi,” meaning “face,” is a deeply embedded social construct in Chinese culture and is an important industry driver. Consumers perceive beauty purchases as investments in their career, private life and social success. 

The glowing effect is another emerging worldwide trend. Social media prompts consumers to look for products that have a visible impact on their skin. Lipowheat’s effect on skin radiance and glow has been evaluated in several clinical studies, demonstrating its visible effect on all aforementioned aspects of the skin: hydration, wrinkle reduction and glow, making it the ideal multifunctional ingredient, Robertet notes. Lipowheat’s presence in numerous products specifically intended for millennials – a population category strongly influenced by social media – is a telling sign of its modernity and relevance to current trends.

By Kristiana Lalou