CBD for personal care: NPD flourishes while industry remains wary of regulatory hurdles

18 Feb 2020 --- Beyond food and nutraceutical applications, cannabidiol (CBD)’s potential for the personal care industry is increasingly recognized. CBD holds beneficial properties, such as calming and nourishing the skin, in addition to its supplements that may boost skin health from the inside out. While regulatory hurdles keep CBD applications in food and beverages in the gray zone, the personal care sector is set on clearing the air. In April, during the 12th Cosmetic Compliance Spring 2020 Summit, in New York, US, federal and state lawmakers and regular affairs specialists from both big and independent cosmetic brands will discuss practical strategies to remain compliant in a constantly changing regulatory landscape.

The Summit will cover the topics and issues that the beauty community faces in 2020, such as CBD, ingredient control and oversight and changing regulations. To address all the challenges that both big and small cosmetic brands face, the speaker line-up will include practical case studies from the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), in addition to other major personal care industry players.

“We want our attendees to walk away with a physical blueprint to overcome their compliance challenges while ensuring interactive dialogue with key regulators and industry peers at the Summit,” notes Natalie Larina, Conference Director for the Summit. 

FDA stance on cosmetic applications of CBD
According to its official position, the the FDA recognizes that there is significant interest in the development of therapies and other consumer products derived from cannabis and its components, including CBD. However, the FDA is aware that some companies are marketing products containing cannabis and cannabis-derived compounds in ways that violate the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and that may put the health and safety of consumers at risk. 

The agency is committed to protecting the public health while also taking steps to improve the efficiency of regulatory pathways for the lawful marketing of appropriate cannabis and cannabis-derived products. FDA has a number of resources available that address cannabis and cannabis-derived products and the agency wants to ensure that consumers and other stakeholders have access to these resources in a centralized location.

CBD Oral care brand Hello Products has launched toothpastes, mouthwashes and lip care lines.Recent developments in this space include US President Trump’s request of US$5 million, from the FY2021 budget, to regulate the CBD industry. The move seeks to allow the FDA to continue enforcing protection laws safeguarding patients and consumers. In the UK, the Food Standards Agency (FSA) set a deadline for CBD companies to provide more information about their products and their contents. The FSA gives industry by March 31, 2021, to submit valid novel food authorization applications. Beyond that date, only products with a valid application will be allowed to remain on the market.

No stopping NPD
Regulatory issues are not demotivating to those who seek to formulate with CBD. The F&B industry is seeing a flurry of NPD activity and NutritionInsight previously reported on all the stand out CBD beverages that were released last year. In the personal care sector, product development is also thriving with many brands tapping into the controversial trend.

Oral care brand Hello Products recently expanded its portfolio with the launch of a CBD line of oral care products, including toothpastes and mouthwashes. In addition to these oral care offerings, the company also launched a CBD lip care category. 

NUYU Wellness entered the world of skin care focusing on consumers looking for natural herbal beauty products with the added benefits of CBD. The California-based company has launched a line of CBD-infused products including a face wash, vitamin C serum, hydrating moisturizer and an eye cream, all utilizing CBD for clearer and healthier skin.

Cannabiniers’s personal care cannabis brand BASKIN Essentials signed multiple distribution agreements across the US, expanding its product availability coast to coast. Powered by Invisicare, a patented skin delivery technology, BASKIN products have improved CBD delivery to the skin and body. BASKIN’s CBD personal care products include CBD creams, teas and bath bombs. 

High Beauty is touted as being 100 percent legal and free of psychoactive substances including THC and CBD. In just over a year demand for High Beauty, the skin care brand powered by Cannabis sativa seed oil, grew significantly, with a list of global retailers in the US, Canada and Europe. This expansion led to staggering growth in sales from January 2019 to December 2019. Demand for the products rose due to their formulation, which delivers sativa seed oil in combination with certified organic plant oils, high-potency antioxidants and pure plant essential oils for healthy, beautiful skin. 

High Beauty is touted as being 100 percent legal and free of psychoactive substances including THC and CBD. In addition to becoming the first cannabis brand in Macy's, US retailers include Sephora, Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, Terrain, Amazon and Beauty Collection. High Beauty is available internationally through European retailers Douglas and Amazon.

In the same space, the CBD Healthcare Company also announced the launch of the most comprehensive CBD product line of massage, muscle relief and skin care products for spa, wellness, therapeutic and chiropractic professionals. The brainchild of long-time wellness specialists, CBD Healthcare Company is marketed as offering higher concentrations of CBD hemp oil per ounce than most other brands. 

Lastly, CBD-infused luxury skin care brand Perricone MD revealed a limited edition serum tagged Cold Plasma Plus+ CBD Advanced Serum Concentrate to celebrate the 10-year anniversary of its cult-favorite Cold Plasma franchise. The new offering features 100 mg of CBD and the brand’s proprietary liquid crystal delivery system, combined with additional Perricone MD favorite ingredients, to promote the ten most visible signs of healthy, youthful-looking, calmed and soothed skin.

As the regulatory environment clears up, the cross-industry potential of CBD is expected to inspire more innovative launches, while tapping into the ingredient’s anti-stress and calming properties.

By Kristiana Lalou