Spotlight on skin care nutrients: Boosting dermal health with vitamins, collagen, peptides and botanicals

31 Aug 2023 --- Skin care is closely tied to nutrition via diet or topical applications. Nutrition Insight speaks to experts at Gelita, International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), Monteloeder and PhytoGaia about outstanding nutrients for boosting skin health while revealing how their nutrition and skin care products share synergies. We also show how these companies demonstrate the efficacy of their products for skin care customer trust.

The skin is multilayered with different cell types. Keratinocyte cells are majorly found in the top layers, requiring hydration to keep the skin barrier intact, explains Heli Anglenius, senior scientist II at IFF Global Health and Nutrition Science. The lower dermis contains fibroblasts, structural components like collagen and elastin, immune cells for defense mechanisms, with other cell types like melanocytes and hair follicles.

“Nutrients and supplements supporting these different cell types can benefit skin health. For instance, vitamin C, keraGEN-IV and Howaru Bl-04 probiotic support collagen synthesis and Sharp-PS phosphatidylserine benefits both the epidermis and dermis, being a component of cell membranes and lipid lamellae, which contributes to the barrier of the epidermis,” she continues.

“Keratin promotes stronger hair follicles and healthy nail growth. The deeper layers have a longer turnover than the surface layers, with a turnover of approximately one month. For this reason, deeper layers benefit from more sustained supplementation with nutrients that affect skin structure maintenance,” details Anglenius.

Primary nutrients and supplements for skin
Dr. Ariati Aris, scientific affairs specialist and Bryan See, VP at PhytoGaia, says: “The skin’s external visibility allows us to observe any issues, changes, or illnesses occurring within the body.”“We utilize data analytics to provide clients with insights into consumer preferences and emerging trends related to nutrition and skin care,” says Nuria of Monteloeder.

Their top three nutrients for skin health include: “Cutting-edge potent antioxidants or vitamins with proven science such as vitamin E tocotrienols.”

“These are potent fat-soluble antioxidants for healthy skin, protecting skin from free radicals that could damage skin cells and accelerate aging, preferentially accumulation in the stratum corneum and it is the skin’s first line of defense against free radicals as well as anti-inflammatory properties.”

The other two nutrients are squalene – an essential component in sebum – and collagen – a protein that gives skin its structure and firmness.

According to Oliver Wolf, Marketing EMEIA at Gelita, a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals is vital for skin health that can be further enriched with smart supplements such as Gelita’s beauty-from-within Verisol Bioactive Collagen Peptides.

“When taken orally, they stimulate fibroblast cells in the dermal layer of the skin to increase extracellular matrix formation, thus positively influencing the skin’s collagen metabolism from within,” he adds.

Similarly, Nuria Caturla, PhD, chief R&D officer at Monteloeder, says that a proper diet can help prevent premature skin aging and promote clear and luminous skin.

“In particular, vitamins like C and E, as well as beta-carotene, are known for their ability to enhance skin quality. Collagen, a crucial protein for skin firmness and youthfulness, thrives with the support of amino acids such as proline and glycine, which are found in certain foods,” she says.“Supplements function holistically, whereas topical skin care is local and these approaches complement each other,” says Anglenius of IFF.

“The recent emergence of botanicals, exemplified by products like Eternalyoung, Zeropollution (a formula of botanical extracts such as rosemary, olive leaves, Sophora japonica and Lippia citriodora) and Nutroxsun (a natural combination of extracts from rosemary and grapefruit), showcases the potential to enhance the skin’s natural radiance.”

Synergies between nutrition and skin care products
Gelita’s Bioactive Collagen Peptides, such as Verisol, BodyBalance and Fortibone, “supports vitality from within” by supporting muscle, joint, bone and skin health. “When you feel strong, healthy and happy with your appearance, your self-esteem will no doubt follow suit,” comments Wolf.

“There are differences between nutrients and supplements given orally and topical skin care products. Supplements function holistically, whereas topical skin care is local and these approaches complement each other,” says Anglenius of IFF.

“Skin is quite impermeable to topical ingredients; therefore, to benefit the deeper layers in the dermis, a systemic approach via blood circulation is needed, which can be achieved through oral supplementation.”

Further, PhytoGaia developed palm-based STGaiaTM containing natural plant squalene and full spectrum tocotrienol – touted as super vitamin E– with superior antioxidant and functional properties that provide cosmeceutical health benefits including skin health and anti-aging.

“STGaiaTM is the first and only synergistic natural plant extract with two of the most important nutricosmetic active ingredients – “Squalene + Tocotrienols” in the market,” claims Bryan See, VP at PhytoGaia. Squalane brings moisturizing and antioxidant benefits, while tocotrienol fortifies the skin barrier and is anti-aging.

Caturla shares the potential synergies between Monteloeder’s nutrition-branded ingredients – EternalYoung, ZeroPollution and Nutroxsun – for creating personalized skin care products.“We communicate with customers through the trade press, industry events and social media, providing clients with comprehensive talking points to use with consumers,” says Wolf of Gelita.

“When integrating EternalYoung into skin care formulations, it effectively reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promotes collagen production and skin elasticity, improves skin firmness and enhances the skin’s natural radiance,” says Caturla.

ZeroPollution is designed to shield the skin from environmental pollutants, oxidative stress and UV radiation. “Nutroxsun is associated with natural sun protection and UV damage prevention.”

Demonstrating impacts of nutrition and skin care on customers
All of Gelita’s products have been tested in preclinical and clinical studies to confirm beneficial effects and safety, assures Wolf. “Our innovations also have approved health claims, which is another great indicator of success.”

“In addition, our customers are increasingly asking permission to mention our brands, such as Verisol, in their product communications to benefit from the strong scientific background and health claims,” he continues.“We collaborate closely with academic researchers and dermatologists in the execution of clinical trials aimed at evaluating the potential skin benefits of STGaiaTM,” says See of PhytoGaia.

Likewise, PhytoGaia gets customer feedback via their marketing efforts and from consumers. “Another important measurement parameter is the repeat and consistency in orders from customers, which will indicate the impact and response from consumers on the ingredient itself,” says Aris.

“In addition, through clinical studies and research, we collaborate closely with dermatologists and researchers to conduct human clinical trials aimed at evaluating the effects of our products on skin health,” adds See.

Anglenius shares that IFF aims for consumers to perceive tangible benefits. “We have robust in vitro assays that guide our ingredient development, and the results of these assays (like, for example, collagen synthesis) facilitate our understanding of the ingredient’s benefits.”

“But the gold standard for us is randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical trials conducted on humans. In these trials, we use objective methods like 3D imaging for wrinkle assessments, moisture meters for hydration and measurements of transepidermal water loss and elasticity, and other quantifiable measures,” she underscores. Monteloeder applies the same gold standard.

The company adopts a comprehensive and rigorous approach to measure and demonstrate the impact of its skin care ingredients on people’s skin health and quality of life, says Caturla. “For ingredient selection and formulation, we employ advanced in silico techniques such as ‘Docking’ to predict molecule interactions.”

“Furthermore, our approach involves a series of in vitro studies conducted on different skin cell types, including keratinocytes, fibroblasts and melanocytes,” she adds. “We also conduct ex vivo studies using skin explants.”

Factoring in subjective experiences in trials such as “self-perception, satisfaction and confidence” enables Monteloeder to have a meaningful impact on the user’s quality of life.

By Venya Patel

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