Givaudan’s neurocosmetic pepper active Zanthalene soothes skin and combats wrinkles

13 Jul 2021 --- Givaudan Active Beauty is unveiling Zanthalene, a scalable natural active ingredient, made by green fractionation. The company says it can provide well-aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas.

Derived from the spice Zanthoxylum bungeanum, commonly known as Sichuan pepper, Zanthalene is a cosmetic ingredient able to act on neuromuscular communication within the skin structure. 

“The product is suitable for cosmetic, but not ingestible skin care, because it acts very directly on the skin structures,” Giada Maramaldi, personal care category manager at Givaudan Active Beauty, tells NutritionInsight.

“Zanthalene can be formulated for facial care with anti-aging claims. The active is also recommended for sensitive skin. Moreover, it is suitable for itching on dry skin and scalp when formulated in anti-dandruff shampoos, as well as in sun care and after sun NPD.”

It is “extremely versatile” according to Maramaldi as it can also be formulated in baby care products, intimate hygiene and body care.

Sichuan pepper is widely used as a spice in Asian cuisine and Zanthalene is extracted from its fruit husks.

Neurocosmetic strategy
Eventually all consumers experience the effects of aging on the skin, such as wrinkles and sensitivity. 

A large number will not be motivated to reverse these effects through invasive treatments, but opt for more natural solutions, Givaudan notes.

“Each facial expression activates a large number of muscles. With time and the decrease of collagen production, these expressions become even more marked and embedded on the skin, leading to the formation of wrinkles,” Maramaldi says.

In order to tackle these effects, Zanthalene offers a “neurocosmetic strategy,” enabling facial muscle relaxation in a safe, reversible and natural way, removing skin discomfort, she adds.

According to the company’s in-house study, 86 percent of consumers are currently interested in beauty products containing natural ingredients that help soothe skin discomfort while offering a smoothing, “botox-like” effect.

Spicing up skin care
Sichuan pepper is a plant widely used as a spice in Asian cuisine, and Zanthalene is extracted from its fruit husks using supercritical CO2. 

Its efficacy has been proven during several clinical studies, Givaudan explains. At low dosage (0.5 percent), Zanthalene is able to reduce skin discomfort such as itching and sensitivity by bringing a soothing effect to the skin in only a few minutes.

At higher dosage (1 percent), Zanthalene shows a visible and immediate reduction of the skin's roughness parameter in only 30 minutes, and long-term efficacy over 30 days. 

Zanthalene can be formulated for facial care with anti-aging claimsThis indicates that the body continues to respond over regular use of the product, creating a virtuous circle of amelioration, according to the beauty expert.

“The active works of chemesthesis. This means that it fires some receptors for temperature and pressure and decreases itch and discomfort. At higher doses, it blocks the communication between nerves and muscles and reduces muscular contraction at skin level, making wrinkles less visible,” Maramaldi notes.

From concept to market
Over 80 percent of consumers are ready to purchase a concept formulated with botox-like active ingredients, Givaudan’s study noted. 

Zanthalene is thus a good ingredient for formulation in beauty products targeting tired skin, aiming for a refreshed look and an immediately visible effect, the company supports.

To showcase the active’s potential, the company’s experts have designed a marketing concept, called Sensilift, which features Zanthalene. 

Powered by Vetivyne, Centerox and rose seed oil to regenerate and plum the skin, this 2/2 highly natural well-aging cream is also enriched with Jambu to energize the skin and provide a boosting, hydrating, comforting and soothing effect.

“There is no defined demographic for Zanthalene, but it has been tested on a panel of people of 35 to 55 years of age. Of course, the neurological strategy of botox-like actives works when the extracellular matrix starts to lose density and is no longer able to hide our muscular contractions of facial muscles,” Marimaldi explains.

“Although less visible in terms of a botox-like effect, younger consumers can benefit from Zanthalene and potentially reduce the tendency to develop fine expression wrinkles. Also, they can benefit from its versatility in removing skin discomfort and itch,” she concludes.

By Kristiana Lalou