Beauty-from-within evolves into gene expression and immunity concepts

15 Jun 2023 --- The beauty-from-within segment has become the rejuvenated expression of vitality and healthy aging. It is shifting innovation to more lifestyle-focused nutrition and cosmetic applications while searching the deeper recesses of the body for answers through genetic and immune system R&D.

Another key turn in the segment is that younger women and men are tapping into the product offerings, which gives brands renewed inspiration.

“Consumers are adopting a proactive approach, increasingly recognizing that all aspects of health are connected. In the Nutribeauty category, for instance, many connect skin health to other healthy habits,” Antonio Vendrell, marketing director at Bioiberica, tells Nutrition Insight.

“Consumers are therefore investing more time in self-care to support healthy aging, and ‘beauty-from-within’ solutions are progressively viewed as part of this.”

Super ingredients
Considered an “all-star” ingredient, hyaluronic acid attracts and binds to water molecules, increasing the skin’s water content for a hydrated effect making it a natural fit for nutricosmetics.

Dermial by Bioiberica is made up of three naturally-occurring components – hyaluronic acid (60-75%), sulfated glycosaminoglycans and collagen. Recent studies show it can increase endogenous hyaluronic acid production, type I and III collagen synthesis and elastin production. 

It also enhances skin cell proliferation and migration, protecting against oxidative stress. 

“This all works to support the hydration, elasticity, firmness and dermal density of the skin, as well as bringing regenerative and antioxidant properties,” explains Vendrell.

Holistic health focusYounger women and men take a keen interest in the beauty-from-within category.
The beauty-from-within category has evolved from being represented mainly by older women as the classic beauty-conscious consumer to younger women and men, demonstrating more market dominance. 

“This opens up a real opportunity for manufacturers and brands within the industry to tap into an expanding market. How formulators speak to this growing consumer base is crucial. Individuals are looking for products which take a positive attitude to age, especially concerning the language they use,” Vendrell emphasizes.

Nexira adopted an innovative methodology “In-test-pass” through research that translates the benefits of bioavailable compounds for the modulation of gene expression in skin.

The company’s new organic and synergistic formulation of clove and immortelle extracts, Hepure, is one of its most in-demand products. It has a hepatoprotective effect on the liver and activates the body’s detoxification pathway.

“A key promise of the NutriBeauty range is improved luminosity, with natural solutions that provide antioxidant protection, correct imperfections and reveal the skin’s beauty with a Glow & Beauty line,” says Clara Fontaine, digital communication manager at Nexira.

The company’s Youth & Prevention line improves skin’s firmness and elasticity and encourages cell regeneration, while the Hair & Nails line boosts tired hair and weak nails. 

“Consumers want credible and effective products, along with scientific evidence to provide the confidence they need before making a purchase,” she says.

Immunity support
Since the COVID-19 pandemic and the heightened focus on well-being, it sparked, consumers have been looking for product synergies that enhance their overall health. Mirroring the nutraceuticals industry, beauty is shifting toward health-enhancing ingredients focused on products that prioritize immunity support and improving the appearance of skin. 

“Part of our strategic focus consists of providing multi-functional ingredients that give the consumer beauty benefits from within from different angles. An example is Curcushine microcapsules, a bioavailable and water-dispersible source of curcumin, which has been shown to protect skin from oxidative stress, improving overall skin appearance,” says Isabel Gómez, global marketing manager at Lubrizol.

The company’s mineral product range includes Lipofer microcapsules, a bioavailable source of iron that protects the immune system and prevents anemia which causes pale skin and dark circles around the eyes. 

The Zicnova microcapsules help keep the immune system’s normal function and the maintenance of normal skin.

Sensory effects
Supplement formats that have sensory potential are on the rise, specifically liquids. Microencapsulation technology helps increase the stability of products and enhances absorption making them compatible with most on-the-go innovative nutraceutical applications.

“As wellness and skin care are converging, the immune-cosmetics concept has emerged, showing real promise in the marketplace as a novel area of prevention,” Gómez explains.

“However, there are still challenges when effectively communicating the science to back up the claims of the nutricosmetic products and the results of clinical trials to the consumers.”Liquid supplement formats are on the rise because they have a sensory effect. 

Providing the benefits in relatable terms that the end-consumer can understand will continue to be critical in the future of the beauty-from-within industry and ensure that the science is not overbearing in marketing messaging. 

According to Fontaine, the desire for emotional and sensory consumption has resulted in the innovation of new formats such as drinks, vials, droppers and gummies.

Ingestible beauty
While existing trends in ingestible beauty, mainly for hair, skin and nail products, continue to grow, new trends are emerging around specific areas of skin health, including products to heal atopic dermatitis, acne and sensitive skin.

“In a March 2023 omnibus survey on 1,002 US adult females, 49% of respondents mentioned concerns about wrinkles, 39% for atopic dermatitis/eczema, 36% for sensitivity and 27% for acne,” says Marshall Fong, senior global marketing manager at Fonterra.

The most popular ingredients are collagen, biotin (and other B vitamins), vitamins A, C and E, zinc and hyaluronic acid. Nutiani Lactoferrin is another ingredient for skin health. 

“Women are often diagnosed with iron deficiency, and poor skin appearance is one of its symptoms. One of the common recommendations for iron deficiency is iron supplements. 

“However, iron supplements are poorly absorbed, and the accumulation of unabsorbed iron in the gut can create an environment more hospitable to unfriendly bacteria,” Fong explains. 

“Lactoferrin helps with iron absorption. It’s a wonderful time for ingestible beauty. An intersection of unmet consumer interest and a growing set of clinically-supported ingredients.” 

“We believe the market will continue to evolve beyond the resolution of wrinkles to a more holistic space. How to make people look and feel beautiful, encompassing things such as mood, stress, anxiety, sleep and immunity,” says Fong. 

By Inga de Jong, with additional reporting from Jolanda van Hal