Beyond skin deep: Geltor launches "animal-free collagen" for skincare

12 Apr 2019 --- Ecocentric biodesign company Geltor unveiled the first ever “human collagen” created for cosmetic formulations, coined HumaColl21, at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France (April 2-4). HumaColl21 is produced with “zero animal inputs” and is touted as having maximum biocompatibility with human skin cells. Human clinical testing of the synthetic product began in February and will complete in Q2 2019.

Human Type 21 collagen is dubbed the “molecular root of youthful, resilient human skin.” Of the 28 types of collagen that the human body produces, Type 21 has been identified as a critical precursor to human collagen types I and III, which are essential components to the maintenance of skin elasticity, moisturization and youthfulness.

HumaColl21’s enters the existing collagen market as a highly differentiated competitor. “We’re seeing some of these proteins being used in interesting ways more and more every day, not just in food now but also in cosmetics and personal care (i.e., Clinique’s use of whey protein and Drunk Elephant’s Protini Polypeptide Cream). And HumaColl21 is just one of many more exciting new consumer protein products to come,” representatives of Geltor tell NutritionInsight.

The company describes its method of manufacturing HumaColl21 as a “sustainable fermentation process similar to beer brewing” that enables production anywhere in the world using only a fraction of the land, water and time normally required to process animal collagen. Today, most collagen for consumer products is sourced from the skin and bones of factory-farmed pigs and cows, and from marine animals, often without consideration for biocompatibility with human skin.

“There are so many naturally occurring proteins with incredible functions outside of the current animal ecosystem,” says Geltor co-founder and CEO, Alex Lorestani. “Our goal is to spearhead the use of bioactive proteins like collagen across new categories.”

HumaColl21 has already been made commercially available. The synthetic formulation is listed as the hero ingredient in AHC’s Ageless Real Eye Cream for Face, a Korean anti-aging face cream, available online and in stores for KRW 58,000 (US$51). The consumer product is being manufactured by Kolmar Korea, a leading personal care manufacturer in Asia.

“As we transition into an era of consciously aware customers, the demand for clean, animal-free products that deliver on user results is growing,” says a representative of Kolmar. “Using HumaColl21 elevates our product against competitors by not only allowing us to offer them clean, vegan ingredients but one that is also optimized for maximum performance.”

Geltor was established in 2015 by co-Founders Alex Lorestani, Ph.D., and Nick Ouzounov, Ph.D. In October of 2018, the company raised US$18.2 million in Series A financing. Geltor made its debut into the cosmetics and beauty industry in April 2018 with their first biodesigned protein, Collume (then known as N-Collage), marketed as an animal-free, non-GMO collagen that “delivers superior cellular regeneration, protection and derma-collagen synthesis.”

Since its debut last year, Collume has been awarded the prestigious 2018 CEW Beauty Award for Innovation of the Year and also became Halal certified.

By Benjamin Ferrer

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