Vegan haircare: Givaudan launches sustainable biomimetic silk

12 Nov 2019 --- Givaudan Active Beauty has unveiled a new, “unique,” vegan, biomimetic silk for hair care, boasting a sustainable production process. The new ingredient holds nourishing and protective properties for the hair. Crafted by white biotechnology, Silkgel is a “next generation of biopolymers” and can be more effective than traditional silicone, the company says. The launch comes as consumers are becoming increasingly concerned about the impact of their choices on the planet and to counteract it, many choose to go vegan or follow plant-based lifestyles. Veganism is growing rapidly in popularity globally and extends to the beauty space, Givaudan notes.

White biotechnology is a branch of biotechnology that uses living cells – from yeast, moulds, bacteria and plants – and enzymes to synthesize products that are easily degradable, require less energy and create less waste during their production.

“The use of vegan silk yields significant benefits. The biodegradable polymers built a layer around the hair fiber that protects them from thermally or chemically induced structural damages. Additionally, vegan silk is proven to repair damaged hair fibers by regenerating their structure,” notes Kristin Schacht, Product Development Manager Biopolymers.

“Furthermore, in hair dye applications, vegan silk can prevent premature color fading. Silkgel is an ingredient, which due to its cosmetic benefits and its sensoriality, it can add texture and leaves a silky touch as soon as it’s applied,” she adds.

Vegan silk's biodegradable polymers built a layer around the hair fiber that protects them from thermally or chemically induced structural damages.The personal care arm of Givaudan is having a launch-heavy year. In September, the company released a new haircare ingredient from wheat as a sustainable alternative to cationic guar – the most used chemical ingredient on the market. Naturein Wheat Peptides, is sourced from 100 percent French-origin locally-sourced wheat and crafted by green fractionation. 

According to the company, Silkgel answers the high consumer demand for more vegan beauty options. It is a viable alternative to traditional silicone, an ingredient defined as “nasty” by 53 percent of consumers, according to a Givaudan survey. The biomimetic silk was created to be a natural silk twin for skin and hair care. 

Produced by means of fermentation using plant starch as a natural source of energy, the product has many hair care benefits. It repairs and also protects hair from pollution and ensures a perfect long-lasting color due to its film-forming properties. As a multifunctional product, it also nourishes the hair and improves smoothness. 

Silkgel has a significant protective effect against the negative impacts of hair dyeing, Givaudan says. In addition, it can be used in a heat protection spray to protect the hair from thermal damage after using a straightener. Even hair that is already thermally damaged can be repaired by up to 72 percent with the application of Silkgel. Due to its protective properties, the active also has an anti-pollution effect and facilitates the removal of carbon particles on the hair fibers during hair rinsing and washing. Silkgel at 4 percent enables the removal of 71 percent of PM2.55 after a simple water rinse and Silkgel at 2 percent enables the removal of 83 percent of PM2.5 after a shampoo rinse.

The ingredient is being presented today during the Society of Cosmetic ScientiIsts’ Formulate in Coventry, UK.

With the appeal of botanicals accelerating, Givaudan Active Beauty also launched a botanical skincare concept designed for Generation Z consumers. The release of My Blue Guard High Defence is a bid to tap into the “clean beauty” trend, as it contains 95 percent natural ingredients, the company notes. The product is marketed as a day cream powered by botanical extracts, which can help Generation Z’s achieve “perfect Instagrammable skin.”

The company’s most significant innovation of the year so far, however, is what is touted as the “world’s first” instant microbiome analysis and profiling system, coined i-MAPS. The new technology allows Givaudan’s customers to expand their product offerings to include skincare products that are tailored to the unique microbiome of their consumers. The scientific breakthrough boasts improved speed and personalization capabilities. Moreover, the technology combines microbiome research and technology, which may be a gateway into exploring the tailoring of beauty products involving the skin microbiome, the company says.

Edited by Kristiana Lalou